Irish farmhouse cheese is one of the great success stories of contemporary Irish food. Blue, goat's, washed-rind, hard and soft cheeses now give cooks a huge range of textures and flavours to work with. Use them as ingredients rather than saving them for the cheeseboard: melt a blue through risotto, crumble goat's cheese over roast vegetables, or use a mature cheddar to give real depth to a gratin.